The E.U.R. - 1 - The Cubic Coliseum

Rome's "original" Coliseum needs no description nor introduction whatsoever, being one of the most famous things in the world, probably second only to Coca-Cola :)

What not everybody knows is that Rome also has a "cubic" Coliseum as well. It's one of the main buildings of the borough of E.U.R., one of the most special modern areas of Rome. Designed in the 30's  to host the World Exhibit of 1942 (the name E.U.R. itself is an acronym for "Esposizione  Universale Roma" ("Rome's Universal Exhibit") the E.U.R. was built according to the most modern architectural standards for the time, and what makes it different from other areas of Rome is that it's an area built from scratch, without being something based on pre-existing structures and without being just low-class housing. 

This building, initially called "Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana" (Palace of the Italian Civilization) and in post-war times renamed "Palazzo della Civiltà del Lavoro" (Palace of the Labour Civilization) was designed by a team of architects in 1936 whose project was selected among others proposed, was intendedly a "modern version" of Rome's most iconic monument, and it imitated its structure, with the arches, and statues under them, just like the ancient Coliseum used to be. You may now wonder... Where are the statues? This is another sad Italian story: when the construction was interrupted for the war, and the the Fascist Regime eventually fell, everything was left the way it used to be, and all the statues, complete and ready to be shipped to the site, never made it to Rome, and are still awaiting their fate in dusty warehouses. 

The main reason for the construction of the E.U.R. is propaganda: the Fascist Regime wanted to show the world the power and the modernity of the "new" (post World War I) Italy, and thus poured huge resources into this project, which was interrupted by the outbreak of World War II. And maybe this fact, which could be considered as a negative thing, adds to the place's atomsphere, because it gives the whole place an "interrupted dream" nuance, so that who visits can try imagning what the place would look once completed. 

Michelangelo's Moses - Rome's Non-Talking Statue

Those who already read the previous post about Pasquino (you can find it clicking on this link: http://viewsofrome.blogspot.com/2011/08/romes-talking-statues-1-pasquino.html), know that Rome has some "talking statues". The Eternal City, however, also has a very stubborn statue, who refused to speak at his maker's request: Michelangelo's Moses. 

There are many stories related to this masterpiece located in a rather dim corner of the Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli, on the Colle Oppio, the hill right opposite the Coliseum. The Basilica has this name (translating as "St. Peter in Chains") because it was built to contain a rather special relic: the chains that held St. Peter during his stay at the Mamertine Prison, located in the Forum area. 

The most interesting feature of this Basilica, however, is not the holy relic under the main altar, but a statue placed in a corner...  A masterpiece coming from two different failures, still one of the most stunning artworks available in Rome: Michelangelo's Moses.


The first failure came from the material itself: the marble block used to make this sculpture was discarded by another artists, who made a mistake in the inital phase of the making of his work, and who deemed the block no longer usable. Michalngelo picked up this block and made a real masterpiece out of it, being however forced to give the Moses a slightly unusual stance, turned towards the left, and a masterfully hidden disproportion beween the size of the two knees. 

Another failure that marked the destiny of this wonderful artwork, is that this statue was just a part of a magnificent tomb for the Pope Julius II (depicted in the upper part of the tomb), which was not completed before the Pope's death, as the great artist was deeply absorbed in other great artworks, such as the Sistine Chapel. Being too beautiful to be put is some dusty warehouse, the statue was put in the corner of this ancient Basilica. 

The reason why I called the Moses a "Non-talking statue" as opposed to the "Talking" ones like Pasquino, stems out of a legend: it is said that the great artist, upon completion of his artwork, being himself surprised by the quality and perfection of the statue, hit the Moses' knee with his hammer shouting: "Why don't you talk?!". Some claim that the mark of this hammer hit is still visible... possibly with the eyes of an art lover...


Related topic link: http://viewsofrome.blogspot.com/2011/08/moses-statue-at-largo-santa-susanna.html

Porta San Sebastiano - 1 - The Unnoticed Angel

Porta San Sebastiano is the ancient gate which allowed those travelling on the Appian Way to enter the Eternal City. The gate is still in use, being on a rather busy road intersection. While the surrounding section of Roman walls  is still original, the gate, through the centuries, has undergone several changes, both during the Middle Age, during the Renaissance period, and even in 20th Century, when Ettore Muti, one of the most famous components of the top brass of the Fascist regime, turned the gate into his very own pied-à-terre. 

This gate, which is itself a nice view, and besides being the entrance to visit a section of the walls, featurees a little "hidden treasure": on the left of the gate (for those "entering" the gate) engraved in the stone, there stands an angel with a spear in the mouth of a dragon trapped under his feet, representing evil. on the right side of the standing figure, there is a Latin text written in Oncial characters. Both the style of the depicted Angel and the "font" used for the text tells us that the image dates back to the Middle Age, most probably engraved by pilgrims who came to Rome and who had to wait for the gates to be open. 

Unfortunately this little treasure often goes unnoticed, as cars pass through the gate without having a chance to appreciate it.  Pedestrians willing to enjoy it will have to synchronize with the car traffic, since the engraving is inside the gate, and the passage is barely enough for a car to pass. 
The more curious (and daring) visitor can take a look at more engravings just on the opposite side, which are smaller and have the names and dates of pilgrimage. Rome is not the "City of Angels" but if you happen to pass by Porta San Sebastiano, you will fine one welcoming you in the Eternal City.

Myths about Rome - La Torre delle Milizie - Nero's "Observation Point"

On the hill right behind the Forum of Nerva, a tall tower made of red bricks stands out against the background of the sky. What looks like a quite anonymous building, is the stage for one of the biggest myths about Rome. 

The Tower, built back in 13th Century for the noble Conti family, and one of the few remaning buildings of the Middle Age in Rome, used to be a taller, three-tiered building, but the upper part was knocked down in 14th century owing to the effects of a strong earthquake that hit the City.  The name of "Torre delle Milizie" comes from an alleged presence of a military garrison's barracks, but until now, I could not find any historical evidence about this fact. 

Roman people built a myth about this tower, telling that that was the point from which the Emperor Nero watched Rome birning during the infamous fire that destroyed the city back in 64 A.D. Nothing could be farther from reality, because of 2 main facts:


- Emperor Nero was not in Rome at the outbreak of the fire, but at his seaside villa in Antium (today Anzio), and:
- the Tower was built in Middle Age, so it was not there at the moment of fire, 


but this is just one of the many stories without historical foundations who were made up in centuries of hatred against this unconventional and innovative Roman Emperor. 
Currently integrated in the archaeological complex of Trajan's Markets, the tower can be accessed entering from the same site's entrance, on Via Quattro Novembre.