Porta San Sebastiano - 1 - The Unnoticed Angel

Porta San Sebastiano is the ancient gate which allowed those travelling on the Appian Way to enter the Eternal City. The gate is still in use, being on a rather busy road intersection. While the surrounding section of Roman walls  is still original, the gate, through the centuries, has undergone several changes, both during the Middle Age, during the Renaissance period, and even in 20th Century, when Ettore Muti, one of the most famous components of the top brass of the Fascist regime, turned the gate into his very own pied-à-terre. 

This gate, which is itself a nice view, and besides being the entrance to visit a section of the walls, featurees a little "hidden treasure": on the left of the gate (for those "entering" the gate) engraved in the stone, there stands an angel with a spear in the mouth of a dragon trapped under his feet, representing evil. on the right side of the standing figure, there is a Latin text written in Oncial characters. Both the style of the depicted Angel and the "font" used for the text tells us that the image dates back to the Middle Age, most probably engraved by pilgrims who came to Rome and who had to wait for the gates to be open. 

Unfortunately this little treasure often goes unnoticed, as cars pass through the gate without having a chance to appreciate it.  Pedestrians willing to enjoy it will have to synchronize with the car traffic, since the engraving is inside the gate, and the passage is barely enough for a car to pass. 
The more curious (and daring) visitor can take a look at more engravings just on the opposite side, which are smaller and have the names and dates of pilgrimage. Rome is not the "City of Angels" but if you happen to pass by Porta San Sebastiano, you will fine one welcoming you in the Eternal City.

"Domine, Quo Vadis?" - A small Church for a Miracle Encounter

On the Appian Way, less than half a kilometer away from Porta San Sebastiano (the main gate in Rome walls on Appian Way) and just metres away from the Catacombs of St. Callisto, there is a small church with a very simple façade, that can easily go unnoticed both by visitors and by Romans, often more concentrated on the nearby road intersection than on what surrounds them.

The little church, as stated also by the sentence written in Latin above the entrance door, was, according to tradition, the stage for a very special encounter: it is believed that St. Peter, fleeing Rome to escape the prosecutions by Emperor Nero, met Christ in this place, and asked him in Latin: "Domine, Quo Vadis?" meaning "Lord, where are you going?" and Christ, who was heading towards Rome, replied: "Eo Romam Iterum Crucifigi", which means "I'm going to Rome to be crucifixed again." From this sentence, Peter understood he should not run away, so he went back to Rome to meet his destiny or martyrdom.

Inside the church, on the floor, we can see a slab of white marble, on which there are engraved 2 footprints, believed to be the footprints of Christ himself (this can be seen from the sentences engraved on the edges of the slab). Historical and archaeological researches showed that the slab is indeed ancient, but in reality it was an "ex voto" made by travellers, probablyleft in the temple as a thanking to the Gods for the successful trip, or maybe as an offer before the trip to invoke their protection.

The little church can be a nice stop for the visitor on the Appian way en route to bigger attractions such as: the Catacombs, the Appian Way, or the ancient city walls, that can be visited in the section around the nearby gate of Porta San Sebastiano.