Every city has its Cathedral... but if somebody asked you "Which is Rome's Cathedral?", what would your answer be??
Everybody knows the magnificence of the Vatican, with the marvelous Renaissaince and Baroque masterpieces crowding the imposing Basilica.. and many bet Rome's "main" church is St. Peter... But St. Peter was finished in the 16th Century... so where was the Pope before the Vatican was built?
The answer is: In San Giovanni in Laterano. The ancient Basilica, dating back to the 4th Century AD, is one of the first to be built after the Law 313 BC (Edict of Tolerance) which legalized Christianity, and takes its name from the Laterani family, who graciously "donated" the land where the church was built, after the Emperor Constantine seized it from them.
The evidence of the primacy of St. John comes from its complete (and rather long) name: "Sacrosancta Cathedralis Papalis Archibasilica Romana Maior Sanctissimi Salvatoris et Sanctorum Iohannis Baptistae et Evangelistae apud Lateranum, omnium Urbis et orbis ecclesiarum Mater et Caput" which roughly translates as: "Holy Papal Major Roman Arch-Basilica in Lateran area, dedicated to the Holy Saviour and to Saint John the Baptist and Evangelist, Mother and Head of all the churches on the globe."
Over 130 meters long, 5 naves, Bizantine style mosaic, beautiful "cosmatesque" floors, an imposing "Ciborio" over the altar, S. Giovanni is the quintessence of the art of Middle Age. The Medieval atmosphere is better appreciated entering from the side entrance, on the northern side of the building, from the square with the giant Egyptian obelisk, typical of every major Roman church, to make it easier to spot for the pilgrims.
The main façade, topped by the statues of Christ with the Apostols, is an addition from 18th Century, and despite being monumental and imposing, is, in my personal opinion, not an example of elegance and correct proportions, even if devoid of all the decorative exaggerations typical of Baroque.
San Giovanni in Laterano has been the Papal See until the completion of the Vatican, and even afterwards, it was chosen as summer residence. The Basilica was where the first Jubilee was celebrated in the year 1300, and also the place of the Baptism of Charles the Great, in 774 AD. An unconfirmed tale has it, that the main disc of red marble in the center of the Basilica is the place where the young Emperor kneeled to be christened.
These beautiful floors, invented by the Cosmati family (hence the name "cosmatesque") were an extremely smart way of adapting the available materials to create works of art. During the Middle Age, most of the traditional trading routes of the ancient times were disrupted, so materials such as exotic marbles were in short supply. The Cosmati found a marvelous way of using small marble fragments to form elegant patterns, which became a trademark of Medieval architecture.
The Basilica also keeps important relics for the pilgrims: the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul, and a part of what is believed to be the table where Christ and the Apostles had the Last Supper.
For the lovers of Roman history, there is a little special thing: the majestic bronze door you will find in the main entrance, under the white main façade were the actual doors of the Roman Senate, saved in the ancient times from the Forum and taken to St. John to be spared from sure stealing and melting to be used for other artworks, or even objects of everyday use, as too frequently happened with other Roman objects (e.g. the Pantheon's decorations)... But this is another story...
So... to wrap it all up... what is Rome's Cathedral again? :)
Everybody knows the magnificence of the Vatican, with the marvelous Renaissaince and Baroque masterpieces crowding the imposing Basilica.. and many bet Rome's "main" church is St. Peter... But St. Peter was finished in the 16th Century... so where was the Pope before the Vatican was built?
The answer is: In San Giovanni in Laterano. The ancient Basilica, dating back to the 4th Century AD, is one of the first to be built after the Law 313 BC (Edict of Tolerance) which legalized Christianity, and takes its name from the Laterani family, who graciously "donated" the land where the church was built, after the Emperor Constantine seized it from them.
The evidence of the primacy of St. John comes from its complete (and rather long) name: "Sacrosancta Cathedralis Papalis Archibasilica Romana Maior Sanctissimi Salvatoris et Sanctorum Iohannis Baptistae et Evangelistae apud Lateranum, omnium Urbis et orbis ecclesiarum Mater et Caput" which roughly translates as: "Holy Papal Major Roman Arch-Basilica in Lateran area, dedicated to the Holy Saviour and to Saint John the Baptist and Evangelist, Mother and Head of all the churches on the globe."
Over 130 meters long, 5 naves, Bizantine style mosaic, beautiful "cosmatesque" floors, an imposing "Ciborio" over the altar, S. Giovanni is the quintessence of the art of Middle Age. The Medieval atmosphere is better appreciated entering from the side entrance, on the northern side of the building, from the square with the giant Egyptian obelisk, typical of every major Roman church, to make it easier to spot for the pilgrims.
The main façade, topped by the statues of Christ with the Apostols, is an addition from 18th Century, and despite being monumental and imposing, is, in my personal opinion, not an example of elegance and correct proportions, even if devoid of all the decorative exaggerations typical of Baroque.
San Giovanni in Laterano has been the Papal See until the completion of the Vatican, and even afterwards, it was chosen as summer residence. The Basilica was where the first Jubilee was celebrated in the year 1300, and also the place of the Baptism of Charles the Great, in 774 AD. An unconfirmed tale has it, that the main disc of red marble in the center of the Basilica is the place where the young Emperor kneeled to be christened.
The Basilica also keeps important relics for the pilgrims: the heads of St. Peter and St. Paul, and a part of what is believed to be the table where Christ and the Apostles had the Last Supper.
For the lovers of Roman history, there is a little special thing: the majestic bronze door you will find in the main entrance, under the white main façade were the actual doors of the Roman Senate, saved in the ancient times from the Forum and taken to St. John to be spared from sure stealing and melting to be used for other artworks, or even objects of everyday use, as too frequently happened with other Roman objects (e.g. the Pantheon's decorations)... But this is another story...
So... to wrap it all up... what is Rome's Cathedral again? :)
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